It's time to store your RV for the winter. Follow this guide to properly
winterize and prepare your RV for long or short term storage. Note: use
RV/Marine antifreeze for the winterization of your RV. It is safe for fresh
water plumbing. For more information and Frequently Asked Questions about RV Antifreeze, click
here.
Let's begin by talking about how your RV water system works.
Your
RV's water system draws water either from your fresh water tank and/or from the
city water hookup. From the fresh water tank, a water pump is used to push water
through the RV. (No pump is needed for water coming from the city hookup.) The
water from the water tank and city water hookup will always be cold. To get hot
water, the water must flow from your water pump into your water heater. The water
is then heated and flows to your hot water fixtures such as sinks and
shower. When winterizing your RV you will need to by-pass the water heater.

Winterizing Instructions
The following are general suggestions. Read your
owner's manual for winterization methods specific to your RV.
| 1. |
Disconnect the outside water source. |
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| 2. |
Drain the water system. There should be up to three
low-point drains. One for the cold water lines, one for the hot water
lines and one for the fresh water tank. Open the petcocks to drain as much
water from your pipes as possible. Open the water taps at all the faucets,
showers and flush the
toilet to drain any remaining water from the system. |
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| 3. |
Drain Water Heater. On the outside of your water
heater either remove the drain plug in the lower left had corner or open
the drain valve in the same location. By leaving a faucet open on the hot
water side, air will equalize pressure and easily drain the tank. You may
want to use a bendable straw to put into the drain hole while water is
coming out to create a siphon which drain all the water to the bottom of
the rounded tank. |
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| 4. |
Blow out the lines. After draining as much water as
possible, it is recommended that a blow out plug be attached to the City
Water Intake. Apply air pressure from an air compressor (not to exceed 45
PSI) to drain the remaining water. Although blowing out the remaining
water is not required, the remaining water will dilute your anti-freeze.
Close all faucets and petcocks when complete. |

| 5. |
By-pass your water heater. |
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By-passing the water heater can save you money by not
having to fill the water heater tank with anti-freeze, saving as much as 6
to 10 gallons of anti-freeze. Some RVs come with a by-pass system
pre-installed but many do not. |
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Before you start: |
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- Make sure to turn off all power to the water heater
(the electric water heaters usually have their own power on-off switch). |
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- Make sure the water heater gas pilot is NOT lit. |
There are three methods for by-passing the water heater:

| A. |
Seasonal By-Pass Kit. This temporary by-pass allows
you to hook up for winterizing and remove in the spring for reconnecting
the system. If your water heater does not have a by-pass kit installed you
will need to use a temporary kit that has two male-to-male connections and
a short length of hose to bypass the water heater. |
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| B. |
Permanent By-Pass Kit. This is a simple and permanent
installation of an elbow by-pass kit that allows you to quickly disconnect
the hater heater by turning two valves at both the cold water entry and
the hot water exit of the water heater. |
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| C. |
Permanent Quck-Turn By-Pass Kit. The easiest system
to use is a permanent installation of a single valve and a back-flow
preventer. The valve is located on the cold water entry and diverts water
to a hose and past the water heater. A back-flow preventer is installed to
prevent water from flowing into the water heater through the hot water
exit. |
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| 6. |
Add Anti-Freeze. You can add anti-freeze either from
the inside using a Water Pump Conversion Kit or from the outside using a
hand pump. Be sure to check your progress by opening up one faucet at a
time, starting from the highest and working to the lowest point in the
fresh water system. Begin with the kitchen faucet. Open the HOT side of
the kitchen faucet ONLY. Pump anti-freeze until flow from the faucet
becomes very pink. This will indicate that all water has been flushed from
your system. Close the faucet. Repeat on the COLD side. Continue to the
next lower fixture. This is normally the bathroom sink, then the shower
and finally the toilet. Don't forget your outside shower if so equipped.
Also, open the two low point lines for the HOT and COLD water lines to
make sure anti-freeze gets to the valves and that no water is trapped.
Finally, close all faucets and the low point valves.
** Note: If you use the hand pump from the outside
method, remember to manually add antifreeze to your water pump OR if you
use the water pump conversion kit method, remember to manually add
antifreeze to the water line and the city water intake check valve (this
is done by turning off the pump, removing pressure from the system by
opening a faucet; then from the outside remove the screen at the city
water intake and push in slightly on the check valve to purge any water
from the line until pink anti-freeze comes out). **
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| 7. |
Pour at least 2 pints of anti-freeze into all sink
and shower drains. The ice maker, washing machine and external shower will
also need to be winterized. Look for this information in your appliance
manuals. |
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| 8. |
Drain and dump your gray and black water tanks.
Remove battery, charge and store in a safe location. |
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| 9. |
You are done winterizing. There are two options at
this point. |
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Option 1. Leave the anti-freeze in the system until
spring and then summerize. You should reinsert the water heater drain plug
to keep dirt, debris and insects out of the water heater.
Option 2. Drain the anti-freeze out of the system by
opening the low points in the lines and letting gravity drain the
anti-freeze. When the anti-freeze is removed you can prepare your camper
for summer use by closing the low points, putting the water heater drain
plug back in and removing the water heater by-pass. There will either be
nothing but air in your water system or some anti-freeze where it cannot
drain from. Either way, your water system will be protected for the winter
and your camper will be ready to go in the summer. All you will need to do
in the spring is run water into the system and flush the remaining
anti-freeze from your water lines. DO NOT ADD WATER UNTIL SPRING WHEN
THERE IS NO CHANCE OF FREEZING. |
Also remember the following:
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| - |
Remove any food that can spoil or attract mice from
your RV. |
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Clean storage areas, oven, range, refrigerator and
areas around dinette. |
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Examine seals around exterior doors and windows.
Caulk if necessary. |
| - |
Check the roof for small leaks or other damage. Make
repairs if necessary. |
| - |
Check plumbing vents, roof vents and air conditioner
shroud. |
| - |
Disconnect your 120 volt line cord and store away. |
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Clean and store your sewer hose. |
| - |
Replace bumper caps. |
| - |
Park with emergency brake on and use wheel chocks. |
| - |
Stabilize your RV. Make sure it does not rock when
you walk inside it. |
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Keep RV out of direct sunlight if possible. |
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Now is a good time to wash and wax. |
| - |
Cean the awning. Do not use a dish detergent. They
contain de-greasers which can cause your awning to dry out and
crack. Use an awning cleaner that will clean, moisturize and remove
mildew. |
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This page was created using helpful
information provided by Camco. For Camco's complete set of instructions for winterizing
you can download their PDF. Warning, the PDF is a large file: 12MB. To download, click
here.
We are also available to winterize your
camper for you. You can view our price schedule and contact us from our Service
page, click here.